A Bias Cut V-Neck Top Pattern, Traced From a Top That Fits

I wanted a simple, luxurious top to wear under cardigans and sweaters, so I turned a sleeveless rayon top that already fits me well into a pattern without unpicking it. I adjusted the length and the strap width, explained how to self-line it, and cut two samples: one on the bias in a polyester chiffon and one in a rayon jersey. Both worked with no bust dart, and now there is a base pattern for the creative tops coming next. We also started with a member's trouser fitting.

A Draped Jersey Top From a Knit Block, by Slash and Spread

I wanted some tops for myself that sit between a plain t-shirt and anything too dramatic, so we voted on a few designs and chose a jersey top with a soft drape down one side and a straight, fitted line on the other. I drafted it from my knit top pattern by slashing and spreading below the bust, cut a first sample in a printed jersey, tried it on and then corrected the pattern: shorter, closer at the hem, and more drape higher up where it actually flatters.

Trouser Fit Corrections in the Right Order, Then the Twist Dress in My Own Size

Two halves this week. First a trouser fitting: a loose waist, a baggy back and a front crotch pulling in, and the order those corrections have to be done in, because changing everything at once tells you nothing. Then back to the twist shoulder dress. I drafted it flat from my own measurements instead of draping it again, cut it in jersey, sewed it up and tried it on, and then worked out where all that extra drape needed to come out.

Draping a Twist Shoulder Dress From One Closed Tube of Jersey

This week we started the black draped dress that came second in your voting. It begins as nothing more than a closed tube of jersey, a giant pillowcase, and everything else happens on the form: the neckline, the armholes, the twist at the shoulder, the shaping down the side that shows the body, and a little ruching on the sleeve seam. Then I laid it flat and worked out the mathematics, so you can draft it for your own size from your hip measurement and your waist to underarm distance.

Finishing the Knot Front Top: Pattern Corrections, First Sample, and How to Draft It

We finished the knot front top this week. I transferred the drape to paper, corrected the shoulders, armholes and side seams so both halves matched, cut a first sample in rayon jersey and sewed it up to see it on the form. Then, because somebody asked how to make this pattern more easily, I went back to my knit block and gave the actual measurements for drafting it flat, without draping it first.